Module 1 of 4

Inspect, Plan & Clean the Surface

Remove, Assess & Store Trim, Moldings, Fasteners & Hardware

Why it matters: Before you prep or refinish, the parts that come off, moldings, trim, emblems, fasteners, and hardware, usually need to be removed so you get a clean paint edge, keep overspray from being trapped under them, and avoid damaging them. Each part is then checked for reuse and stored and labeled so it goes back exactly where it belongs.
How it's done: First figure out how each piece is attached, bolted, clipped, or glued. Bolted moldings are reached from inside the trunk, door, or fender. Clipped moldings pry off their clips. Glued moldings release more easily if you warm the part and panel with a heat gun, then slice the double-sided tape with a plastic or putty knife, or cut it with piano wire, and clean the leftover adhesive off the panel.
What you need: A heat gun, plastic trim tools or a utility or putty knife, piano wire, adhesive and tape remover, labeled bags for the fasteners, and a safe place to store the removed parts.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Inspect each molding and trim piece to see how it is attached: bolted, clipped, or glued.
  2. For bolted parts, access the fasteners from inside the panel (trunk, door, or fender) and remove them.
  3. For clipped parts, gently pry to release the clips without marring the paint.
  4. For glued parts, warm the part and surface with a heat gun, then slice the double-sided tape with a plastic or putty knife, or cut it with piano wire.
  5. Peel the part off and remove any leftover tape and adhesive from the panel.
  6. Assess each removed part for reuse versus replacement, bag and label the fasteners, and store the parts safely.
โš  Common Pitfalls
[VISUAL PLACEHOLDER] Module 1 banner: tech inspecting a panel with a mil gauge and wiping it with wax and grease remover.

INSPECT, PLAN & CLEAN THE SURFACE (The 30-second Lesson Overview)

Inspect & planIdentify the substrate, finish type, and film thickness (mil gauge), then plan the repair. Over ~12 mils, strip it.
Remove contaminantsWash, then wax and grease remover, before any sanding. Skipping this causes fish-eyes and poor adhesion.
Remove corrosionTake rust down to clean, bright metal, then treat and prime right away.
Final clean & tackBlow off, final wash, and tack just before coating. A clean panel is a clean job.
Control staticStatic pulls dust to the panel, especially plastic. Ground the vehicle and use anti-static methods, not a dry rag.
Goal: read a surface, clean it correctly in the right order, deal with corrosion, and stop static from pulling dust into your finish.
๐Ÿ’ก Did you know? The entire factory paint job on a car (e-coat, primer, base, and clear) is usually only about 4 to 6 mils thick, roughly a sheet of notebook paper. That is why you measure with a mil gauge before you sand: there is not much paint to work with.
!

Safety first

The skills

[VISUAL PLACEHOLDER] Mil gauge reading film thickness on a panel; chart of substrate types.

Inspect the surface & make a plan

ASE Surface Prep Task ยท A1"Inspect, identify, and document the substrate, type of finish, surface condition, and film thickness; develop a plan for refinishing."What it means: read the panel and decide how far you have to go, before you ever pick up a tool.
Why it matters: You cannot pick the right products or sand sequence until you know what you are working with. Reading the panel up front prevents adhesion and corrosion failures and lets you build an accurate plan and estimate.
How it's done: Identify the substrate, finish type, and surface condition under good light, measure the existing film build with a mil gauge, then decide repair-vs-strip and write down the plan.
What you need: A mil (film-thickness) gauge, good lighting, a clean panel to read, and notes for the plan.
โš  Common Pitfalls
  • Guessing the substrate instead of confirming it (steel vs aluminum vs galvanized vs plastic/composite) leads to the wrong undercoat and later adhesion or corrosion failure.
  • Skipping the mil-gauge reading, so you miss that total film build is already too high and should be stripped (heavy build, roughly over 12 mils, usually has to come off).
  • Only glancing at the panel instead of reading it under good light from several angles, so you miss prior repairs, cracks, or coverage problems.
  • Not documenting finish type and condition before you start, so you cannot match the system or back up the estimate.

Before you touch a sander, you decide what you are working with and how far you have to go.

Key pointsIdentify the substrate, the type of finish, and the surface condition. Measure existing film build with a mil gauge; total build over about 12 mils usually has to be stripped.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Wash the vehicle with soap (a no-wax car wash soap) and water using a clean wash mitt. Dry it, then look it over under good light for the substrate type (steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, plastic, or composite) and the type and condition of the finish.
  2. Read film thickness on the body panels with an electronic mil gauge, taking readings in several spots, not just one.
    1. Decide repair vs. strip:
      • Under ~12 mils โ€” usually safe to prep and recoat
      • Over ~12 mils โ€” strip to a sound layer, then recoat
  3. Write the repair plan โ€” the products, materials, and order of operations. For example:
    • Products: wax & grease remover, self-etching primer (for bare metal), 2K primer-surfacer, primer-sealer, basecoat and clearcoat
    • Materials: sandpaper stepped P180 โ†’ P320 โ†’ P400, body filler and glaze, masking paper and tape, tack cloth
    • Order of operations: clean โ†’ strip/sand โ†’ treat bare metal โ†’ primer-surfacer โ†’ block sand โ†’ seal โ†’ mask โ†’ refinish
๐ŸŽฌ Video demo + narration
Film this procedure (or build a narrated slideshow from the step images). Save as ase_b2a_inspect_demo.mp4 in this category's images folder, then swap this box for a <video> player.
Narration script (read in order):
  1. Wash the vehicle with soap (a no-wax car wash soap) and water using a clean wash mitt . Dry it, then look it over under good light for the substrate type (steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, plastic, or composite) and the type and condition of the finish .
  2. Read film thickness on the body panels with an electronic mil gauge , taking readings in several spots , not just one.
  3. Write the repair plan โ€” the products, materials, and order of operations. For example:
๐Ÿ“ท Step-by-step image prompts โ€” consistent series (generate in one session; reuse the same subject/style reference so every step matches)
Step 1 โ€” save as ase_b2a_inspect_s11.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Wash the vehicle with soap (a no-wax car wash soap) and water using a clean wash mitt . Dry it, then look it over under good light for the substrate type (steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, plastic, or composite) and the type and condition of the finish . CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 2 โ€” save as ase_b2a_inspect_s21.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Read film thickness on the body panels with an electronic mil gauge , taking readings in several spots , not just one. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 3 โ€” save as ase_b2a_inspect_s31.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Write the repair plan โ€” the products, materials, and order of operations. For example: CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.

Remember: Measure first. The mil gauge tells you whether you can build on the old paint or must strip it.

๐Ÿ”ง Practice in the Lab: Inspect and measure film build

GoalRead film build with an electronic mil gauge and decide repair vs. strip.
Skill checkYou take readings in several spots and correctly call under ~12 mils โ†’ prep and recoat, over ~12 mils โ†’ strip.
[VISUAL PLACEHOLDER] Wiping a panel with wax and grease remover, two-rag method.

Remove dirt, wax, grease & contaminants

ASE Surface Prep Task ยท A2"Soap and water wash the entire area to be repaired; remove dirt, grease, wax, silicone, and other contaminants."What it means: get all contamination off before you sand, so it cannot get ground in and ruin adhesion.
Why it matters: Wax, silicone, and road film left on the panel get driven into your sand scratches and cause fish-eyes and adhesion failure later. Cleaning first is what lets paint bond.
How it's done: Wash with no-wax soap, clean with a waterborne cleaner, then a solvent wax and grease remover, using the two-cloth method and wiping off before it flashes.
What you need: No-wax car wash soap, waterborne surface cleaner, solvent wax and grease remover, lint-free towels, plus a respirator and nitrile gloves.
โš  Common Pitfalls
  • Sanding BEFORE you clean, which drives wax, silicone, and road film into the scratches and shows up later as fish-eyes and adhesion failure.
  • Using one rag for both wipe-on and wipe-off, which just smears the contaminant around; use the two-cloth method and wipe off before the solvent flashes.
  • Cleaning only the repair and ignoring the adjacent panels, so contaminants migrate back into the work area.
  • Letting the cleaner dry on the surface instead of wiping it off, which redeposits everything it just dissolved.
Key pointsClean before you sand. Wax, grease, silicone, and road grime sanded into the surface cause fish-eyes and adhesion failure later.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Wash with soap and water to remove the heavy dirt and grime.
  2. Wipe with wax and grease remover using the two-rag method: one rag to apply, a clean dry rag to wipe before it flashes off.
  3. Work small areas so the remover does not dry on the surface.
  4. Clean adjacent panels too, so you do not drag contamination into the repair.
๐ŸŽฌ Video demo + narration
Film this procedure (or build a narrated slideshow from the step images). Save as ase_b2a_clean_demo.mp4 in this category's images folder, then swap this box for a <video> player.
Narration script (read in order):
  1. Wash with soap and water to remove the heavy dirt and grime.
  2. Wipe with wax and grease remover using the two-rag method: one rag to apply, a clean dry rag to wipe before it flashes off.
  3. Work small areas so the remover does not dry on the surface.
  4. Clean adjacent panels too, so you do not drag contamination into the repair.
๐Ÿ“ท Step-by-step image prompts โ€” consistent series (generate in one session; reuse the same subject/style reference so every step matches)
Step 1 โ€” save as ase_b2a_clean_s11.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Wash with soap and water to remove the heavy dirt and grime. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 2 โ€” save as ase_b2a_clean_s21.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Wipe with wax and grease remover using the two-rag method: one rag to apply, a clean dry rag to wipe before it flashes off. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 3 โ€” save as ase_b2a_clean_s31.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Work small areas so the remover does not dry on the surface. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 4 โ€” save as ase_b2a_clean_s41.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Clean adjacent panels too, so you do not drag contamination into the repair. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.

Remember: Clean, then sand, then clean again. Wax and grease remover comes before the paper.

๐Ÿ”ง Practice in the Lab: Clean a panel the right way

GoalGet a panel truly clean so paint will bond, using the correct cleaners in the correct order and the two-cloth method.
ProductsNo-wax car wash soap, a waterborne surface cleaner, a solvent-based wax & grease remover, and lint-free towels.
Two-cloth methodApply the cleaner with one folded lint-free towel, then wipe it off with a second clean, dry lint-free towel before it flashes (dries). Work a small area at a time and turn to a fresh towel face often. Never let cleaner air-dry on the panel, it just redeposits the contamination.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Wash the panel with no-wax soap and water, rinse, and dry.
  2. Clean first with a waterborne cleaner โ€” it removes water-soluble contamination (salt, sweat, fingerprints). Two-cloth method: apply with one lint-free towel, wipe with a clean dry one before it dries.
  3. Then clean with a solvent-based wax & grease remover โ€” it removes oil, wax, silicone, and tar. Same two-cloth method.
  4. Wipe in one direction, not circles, and change towels often.
  5. Do a final clean and tack off right before you coat.
๐ŸŽฌ Video demo + narration
Film this procedure (or build a narrated slideshow from the step images). Save as ase_b2a_demo_demo.mp4 in this category's images folder, then swap this box for a <video> player.
Narration script (read in order):
  1. Wash the panel with no-wax soap and water, rinse, and dry.
  2. Clean first with a waterborne cleaner โ€” it removes water-soluble contamination ( salt, sweat, fingerprints ). Two-cloth method: apply with one lint-free towel, wipe with a clean dry one before it dries.
  3. Then clean with a solvent-based wax & grease remover โ€” it removes oil, wax, silicone, and tar . Same two-cloth method.
  4. Wipe in one direction , not circles, and change towels often.
  5. Do a final clean and tack off right before you coat.
๐Ÿ“ท Step-by-step image prompts โ€” consistent series (generate in one session; reuse the same subject/style reference so every step matches)
Step 1 โ€” save as ase_b2a_step_s11.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Wash the panel with no-wax soap and water, rinse, and dry. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 2 โ€” save as ase_b2a_step_s21.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Clean first with a waterborne cleaner โ€” it removes water-soluble contamination ( salt, sweat, fingerprints ). Two-cloth method: apply with one lint-free towel, wipe with a clean dry one before it dries. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 3 โ€” save as ase_b2a_step_s31.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Then clean with a solvent-based wax & grease remover โ€” it removes oil, wax, silicone, and tar . Same two-cloth method. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 4 โ€” save as ase_b2a_step_s41.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Wipe in one direction , not circles, and change towels often. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 5 โ€” save as ase_b2a_step_s51.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Do a final clean and tack off right before you coat. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Why both, in this orderWaterborne and solvent cleaners remove different contaminants. Use only one and you leave half the contamination behind, which causes fish-eyes and adhesion failure.
Skill checkNo water-break on the surface, you cleaned waterborne then solvent with the two-cloth method on clean lint-free towels, and you cleaned before sanding.
[VISUAL PLACEHOLDER] Surface rust being taken down to bright metal, then treated.

Identify & remove surface corrosion

ASE Surface Prep Task ยท A3"Inspect for, identify, and remove corrosion from the surface to be refinished."What it means: take rust down to sound, bright metal and treat it before it spreads back under the paint.
Why it matters: Paint over rust and the corrosion keeps spreading underneath and blisters the finish. You have to stop it at the source before you coat.
How it's done: Find all the corrosion, take it down to clean, bright metal, then apply the correct corrosion treatment or undercoat right away before it flash-rusts.
What you need: Abrasive or media for rust removal, a corrosion treatment or etch primer, plus eye protection and a respirator.
โš  Common Pitfalls
  • Painting over rust or leaving a brown film behind, so corrosion keeps spreading under the new finish and blisters it.
  • Not taking it down to clean, bright metal and then failing to apply the corrosion treatment or undercoat right away.
  • Letting freshly cleaned bare metal sit and flash-rust before treatment, especially in humidity.
  • Using a method aggressive enough to thin or warp the panel.
Key pointsRust must come off down to clean, bright metal, and bare metal must be treated and primed quickly before it flash-rusts again.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Remove the corrosion mechanically (sanding/abrasive) or chemically down to bright metal.
  2. Clean the bare metal.
  3. Apply a metal treatment/conversion coating or self-etching primer to stop new corrosion.
  4. Prime promptly so the bare metal does not flash-rust.
๐ŸŽฌ Video demo + narration
Film this procedure (or build a narrated slideshow from the step images). Save as ase_b2a_corrosion_demo.mp4 in this category's images folder, then swap this box for a <video> player.
Narration script (read in order):
  1. Remove the corrosion mechanically (sanding/abrasive) or chemically down to bright metal.
  2. Clean the bare metal.
  3. Apply a metal treatment/conversion coating or self-etching primer to stop new corrosion.
  4. Prime promptly so the bare metal does not flash-rust.
๐Ÿ“ท Step-by-step image prompts โ€” consistent series (generate in one session; reuse the same subject/style reference so every step matches)
Step 1 โ€” save as ase_b2a_corrosion_s11.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Remove the corrosion mechanically (sanding/abrasive) or chemically down to bright metal. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 2 โ€” save as ase_b2a_corrosion_s21.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Clean the bare metal. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 3 โ€” save as ase_b2a_corrosion_s31.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Apply a metal treatment/conversion coating or self-etching primer to stop new corrosion. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 4 โ€” save as ase_b2a_corrosion_s41.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Prime promptly so the bare metal does not flash-rust. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.

Remember: Bare metal rusts fast. Treat and prime the same day you expose it.

[VISUAL PLACEHOLDER] Blowing off and tacking a panel just before priming.

Final cleaning, dust removal & tack

ASE Surface Prep Task ยท A4"Remove dust and clean the surface with a final cleaning solution; remove remaining dust or lint with a tack rag before coating."What it means: the last clean right before paint, so nothing lands in the finish.
Why it matters: A panel that looks clean still holds sanding dust and skin oil. A final clean and tack right before coating is what keeps dirt and fish-eyes out of the finish.
How it's done: Blow off with clean, filtered air, do a final solvent wipe, then tack off lightly right before you spray.
What you need: Filtered and water-trapped compressed air, wax and grease remover, a fresh tack cloth, clean lint-free towels, and gloves.
โš  Common Pitfalls
  • Tacking too early, before the final solvent wipe, so fresh dust settles again before you coat.
  • Pressing hard with the tack cloth or using a saturated one, which leaves a residue that causes fish-eyes.
  • Blowing the panel off with dirty or oily shop air (no inline filter or water trap), which recontaminates it.
  • Handling the cleaned panel with bare hands and not re-cleaning, so skin oils cause adhesion problems.
Key pointsRight before coating, the panel gets a final clean, a blow-off, and a tack cloth wipe to remove dust and lint.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Blow the panel and seams off with clean, dry air.
  2. Final-wipe with the correct cleaner for the coating you are about to spray.
  3. Tack the surface lightly just before spraying; do not press hard or drag a dirty tack cloth.
๐ŸŽฌ Video demo + narration
Film this procedure (or build a narrated slideshow from the step images). Save as ase_b2a_finalclean_demo.mp4 in this category's images folder, then swap this box for a <video> player.
Narration script (read in order):
  1. Blow the panel and seams off with clean, dry air.
  2. Final-wipe with the correct cleaner for the coating you are about to spray.
  3. Tack the surface lightly just before spraying; do not press hard or drag a dirty tack cloth.
๐Ÿ“ท Step-by-step image prompts โ€” consistent series (generate in one session; reuse the same subject/style reference so every step matches)
Step 1 โ€” save as ase_b2a_finalclean_s11.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Blow the panel and seams off with clean, dry air. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 2 โ€” save as ase_b2a_finalclean_s21.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Final-wipe with the correct cleaner for the coating you are about to spray. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 3 โ€” save as ase_b2a_finalclean_s31.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Tack the surface lightly just before spraying; do not press hard or drag a dirty tack cloth. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.

Remember: The last thing before paint is always: blow off, wipe, tack.

[VISUAL PLACEHOLDER] Grounding strap clipped to the vehicle to discharge static.

Control static electricity

ASE Surface Prep Task ยท A5"Remove and control static electricity on the surface to be refinished."What it means: discharge the static charge that pulls dust onto the panel, especially on plastic parts.
Why it matters: A statically charged panel pulls dust right back onto it after you tack, so it shows up in the finish. Controlling static keeps the surface clean long enough to coat.
How it's done: Ground the vehicle and use anti-static methods (anti-static products or an ionizing air gun), especially on plastic parts and in dry conditions.
What you need: A grounding connection and an anti-static product or ionizing air gun, plus your normal cleaning supplies.
โš  Common Pitfalls
  • Ignoring static, so the panel keeps pulling dust right back onto it after you tack.
  • Relying on a dry tack cloth alone, which can actually build static instead of removing it.
  • Not grounding the vehicle or using anti-static products, especially on plastic bumpers and in dry conditions.
Key pointsStatic charge pulls dust onto the panel, especially plastic parts. A dry tack cloth does not discharge it; grounding does.
How to Do It (Step by Step)
  1. Connect a grounding strap or jumper from the vehicle body to a good ground.
  2. Use anti-static cleaners or wipes made for plastic where needed.
  3. Keep the booth clean and humidity controlled to reduce static build-up.
๐ŸŽฌ Video demo + narration
Film this procedure (or build a narrated slideshow from the step images). Save as ase_b2a_static_demo.mp4 in this category's images folder, then swap this box for a <video> player.
Narration script (read in order):
  1. Connect a grounding strap or jumper from the vehicle body to a good ground.
  2. Use anti-static cleaners or wipes made for plastic where needed.
  3. Keep the booth clean and humidity controlled to reduce static build-up.
๐Ÿ“ท Step-by-step image prompts โ€” consistent series (generate in one session; reuse the same subject/style reference so every step matches)
Step 1 โ€” save as ase_b2a_static_s11.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Connect a grounding strap or jumper from the vehicle body to a good ground. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 2 โ€” save as ase_b2a_static_s21.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Use anti-static cleaners or wipes made for plastic where needed. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.
Step 3 โ€” save as ase_b2a_static_s31.jpg: Create an image showing this exact step in an automotive refinishing lesson: Keep the booth clean and humidity controlled to reduce static build-up. CONSISTENT SERIES STYLE (keep identical across every step): the SAME refinish technician (same face and build, navy shop uniform), the SAME clean, brightly lit collision-repair booth, the SAME medium working camera distance and soft, even lighting. If a technician or hands appear, show correct PPE for the task. Photorealistic, true-to-life color, no text, no watermark. Aspect ratio 16:9.

Remember: Dust clinging to a bumper is usually static. Ground it, do not just wipe it.

๐Ÿ”ง Practice in the Lab: Control static

GoalGround the vehicle and use an anti-static wipe so dust stops clinging to plastic.
Skill checkYou ground the body instead of only wiping with a dry tack cloth, and dust release improves.
Check what you learned

Final clean & tack / static

A tech notices dust strongly attracted to a plastic bumper cover during prep. What is an approved method to control it?

Connect a grounding jumper. The dust is held by static charge. Grounding the vehicle discharges it; a dry rag just moves it around.

Static

Static has built up on a body during prep. Painter A says wipe it down with a dry tack cloth to discharge it. Painter B says use a grounding/anti-static method. Who is right?

Painter B only. A dry tack cloth does not remove a static charge and can even add to it. Grounding and anti-static products discharge it.

# Numbers & Specs for this module

Film build / strip threshold: total paint build should not exceed about 12 mils; the common strip threshold is 12 to 14 mils. One mil = 0.001 inch โ‰ˆ 25 microns. Read it with an electronic mil gauge in several spots.

Cleaning order & method: clean with a waterborne cleaner first, then a solvent-based wax & grease remover, always using the two-cloth method with lint-free towels. Clean before sanding and again before coating. Verify products on the data sheet.